Los Angeles first fell in love with Ricardo Zarate, the humble South American chef from Lima, Peru, when he was occupying a tiny stall at the Mercado la Paloma, called Mo-Chica, near the garment district downtown. He moved up quickly to open a larger version of his first eatery (where Ray Garcia’s B.S. Taqueria currently resides) and the ambitious Picca project on Pico (now closed) with a stunningly modern design serving cantina-style causas (think sushi with potato), tapas and pisco cocktails from his homeland that quickly dubbed him “the Godfather of Peruvian cuisine.”
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